Victoria's Inner Harbour with the Parliament Buildings and the Fairmont Empress on the waterfront

What to See in Victoria, BC: Castles, Totem Poles and Floating Homes

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Victoria has a reputation for being tidy, polite and a little old-fashioned. The reputation is only half the story. The city also holds Indigenous art, odd museums and a working waterfront. This guide sorts the sights by what they offer, so you can build a plan that fits your time.

  • Plan two days at the least. A single day is too rushed.
  • Mix the big names (castles, gardens) with the free, quieter stops.
  • Check opening days and tour times before you go.

Where do you start in the city centre?

Start at the Inner Harbour. It is the city’s main gathering point. You get water views, the British Columbia Parliament Buildings and a steady flow of street life. On summer weekend evenings, artisan markets and live shows add to the mix.

The Fairmont Empress sits on the same harbour. It was built in 1908 and looks like a castle. You do not need a room to admire it from outside. Some people say it is haunted, which makes it a natural stop on an evening walk.

Next to the harbour and the Legislative buildings is Thunderbird Park. It is small, but it repays the stop. Several totem poles from different Nations stand out front. Many are replicas of originals kept inside the nearby museum for preservation. Some are originals. Entry is free, so it works well as a first stop of the day.

Start here for three reasons:

  • The sights are close together.
  • Much of it costs nothing.
  • It sets the scene for the rest of your trip.

What should you see for Indigenous history and culture?

Victoria is best known for its British character. Indigenous culture is easy to miss, so seek it out on purpose.

The Royal BC Museum is one of Canada’s oldest museums. It is shifting from its colonial roots toward working with local Indigenous communities. The aim is a more respectful account of the region’s history.

Two parts stand out:

  • Living Languages. This room covers the many Indigenous languages of British Columbia. Interactive displays let you hear them spoken. Some languages are or were endangered, and the documentation work is worth your time.
  • The First Peoples gallery. It holds regalia, masks and many poles from the Pacific Coast. Its centrepiece is a recreation of a Kwakwaka’wakw chief’s ceremonial house, with two towering house posts.

The museum is open daily from 10am to 5pm.

Food is part of the story too. Bannock is a fried bread that has become a staple of Indigenous cuisine. A food truck called Bannock Room operates in the outdoor food court beside the museum. You can order it plain, with cinnamon and sugar, or in a taco. Indigenous food is not always easy to find in Canada, so this is a useful stop.

Which castles and gardens are worth the trip?

Both give you a look at the city’s Victorian-era wealth.

Craigdarroch Castle

This castle was built in the 1880s for Scottish coal baron Robert Dunsmuir. It is a National Historic Site on a hill above the city. It is known for its stained-glass windows and detailed woodwork. A guided tour covers four storeys of restored rooms with antique furnishings. It is open Wednesday to Sunday, 10am to 4pm. It is closed Monday and Tuesday, so plan around that.

Hatley Castle

Hatley Castle lies about 12 km from the city, on the grounds of Royal Roads University. James Dunsmuir commissioned it. Castles are rare in a young country like Canada.

You can enter only on a guided tour. Tours run at 10:30am, 11:45am, 1:30pm and 2:45pm. Private events such as weddings can close it to the public. Check ahead. If the castle is closed, you can still walk the grounds on your own. Peacocks wander the yard, and the rear of the castle faces the water.

The castle is a popular filming location. X-Men, Smallville and Disney’s The Descendants all used it.

Butchart Gardens

The gardens lie northwest of the city. They are the most elaborate flower display in the area. Themed sections include the Sunken Garden, the Italian Garden, the Rose Garden and the Japanese Garden. The Sunken Garden occupies an old limestone quarry and has a fountain with changing patterns. A loop route links the sections. A carousel and a gelato shop help if you travel with children.

The gardens are large. If you travel with an infant or small children, ask at the entrance about closer parking.

What else fills a second day or an evening?

Once the main sights are done, add one or two quirkier stops.

Fisherman’s Wharf

This working port has floating homes and shops painted in bright colours. Walk the boardwalks between them for good photos of the water. Food options are plentiful, and covered tables sit beside the water. It gets busy at mealtimes, and parking is tight. Street parking in nearby neighbourhoods is easier.

Watch the water for wildlife. Seals visit the area. Do not feed them. The practice is banned. Kayak tours and a harbour taxi let you explore further out.

Victoria Bug Zoo

This small attraction takes insects and arachnids out from behind glass. Staff hand them to visitors to examine. You can hold a praying mantis or see a tarantula up close. A weekly accessibility hour runs on Wednesdays from 10am to 11am, and masks are required for visitors age 5 and up during it. Masks are provided with admission.

A ghost walk after dark

A local storyteller leads walking tours of the streets and their ghosts. They suit history fans and horror fans with a good imagination. You pass historic landmarks and hear grim stories. Special tours run in the Halloween season.

Getting there

Victoria is reached by ferry or by plane. Ferries run from mainland British Columbia. Flights connect from most major Canadian cities. If you travel without a car, a coach transfer links downtown Vancouver to downtown Victoria. Do not treat Victoria as a day trip. A weekend gives you room to breathe.

Related reading

Sources

Photo: Victoria harbour – Victoria, British Columbia – 2014, by Blake Handley from Victoria, Canada, CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)